Marks Daily Apple
Serving up health and fitness insights (daily, of course) with a side of irreverence.
23 Jun

A Guide to Crustaceans, Bivalves and Molluscs, or Why You Should Be Eating Exoskeleton-Bearing Aquatic Invertebrates

oysters2I grew up in a coastal fishing village in Maine, and one of my favorite memories is being out on the flats at low-tide, digging for the clams that would accompany our occasional lobster feasts (back when lobster was well under a dollar a pound). I can still feel the excitement of pulling that clam rake up and looking for the tasty bivalves that would soon become the first course.

We humans like our shellfish. Nearly every coastal region which hosted humans features massive shell collections, often called shell heaps, or middens. You’ve even got inland piles, like the 11,000 year old midden full of snail shells in inland Vietnam, indicating that even inlanders knew shellfish were worth eating. Back in my marathon training days, I recall running a mountain trail in Woodside, CA, ten miles inland, and coming across layers of thousand year-old strata embedded with all manner of seashell left behind by the coastal Indian tribes. Because the entirety was just full of seashells, you had to look closely to discern the individual shells. These folks definitely liked their shellfish.

Recounting a classic Weston A. Price observation, Chris Masterjohn describes how two perpetually warring New Guinean tribes would broker temporary peace to trade shellfish for sweet potatoes. The upland tribes would put aside the spears and bring down some tubers, while the coastal tribes would relent and offer shellfish. It was a beautiful arrangement, far more harmonious than the alternative (which sometimes occurred) – the highlanders selectively hunting and eating the livers and organs of fishermen of the coastal tribes.

But why? What can explain the persistent shell middens all over the world, both inland and on the coasts? Why were there so many seashells embedded in that Woodside strata? What’s so great about shellfish that it stops multigenerational tribal warfare in its tracks and drives sweet potato eaters to prize the organs of fishermen who eat it?

They’re tasty, sure, but I wouldn’t put oysters, mussels, and clams over a grass-fed lamb shoulder roast, and I doubt the flavor of those New Guinean fisherman livers reflected the shellfish content of their diet. No, the taste isn’t the driving factor. It’s the uniquely dense nutrition inherent to most shellfish. Since they spend their lives immersed in mineral rich water, they’re excellent repositories of those same minerals, including zinc, iodine, selenium, and magnesium, along with vitamin A and B-vitamins (especially B12). Plus, when we eat shellfish, we’re eating the entire animal (except for the shell). All that muscle meat and digestive tissue and organ mass slides right down. Humans can get these nutrients on land through other animals and some plants, but rarely can they get them in such a concentrated, easy-to-consume form. And you all know how much we like to make things easy for ourselves.

Let’s go down the list of species and make a case for including shellfish in your diet:

Oysters

oystersThe most nutrient dense, the most expensive, the perfect accompaniment to lemon and hot sauce, oysters are truly the stars of the shellfish world. Recent evidence of an early “oyster bar” puts our infatuation with the bivalves at around 125,000 years old, which is a pretty strong track record. The oyster’s reputation as an aphrodisiac may have ground to stand on, as they are the single greatest source of dietary zinc, which our body needs to make testosterone.

Just four medium sized Pacific oysters supply a smattering of B-vitamins (including over 1000% of daily B12), 1200 IU of vitamin A, a third of daily folate, almost 7 mg of vitamin E, 3 mg copper, 280% of daily selenium, and 33 mg zinc. That comes with 18 g protein, 4 g fat, 1.5 g omega-3, 0.1 g omega-6, and 9 grams of carbohydrates.

At an Asian supermarket, I can buy those four oysters, still living, for $0.80 a pop. Or, I can head down to Malibu Seafood and pick up some for a couple bucks each. As to whether farmed oysters, which make up 95% of the market, are okay, they’re fine. If you remember from last time, I described how most farmed shellfish live totally “natural” lives, only instead of being attached to a rock they’re attached to an artificial construct. Same water and food, though. Eat these guys raw and living for the full effect (plus briny goodness). Canned, smoked oysters are also an option.

How to open oysters.

Clams

clamsAs a New England native, I’m contractually obliged to sing the praises of the clam. Now, they aren’t quite as nutrient-rich as oysters, but they’re still worth eating for a few reasons. First – the texture. Some people hate the chewiness; I love it. I can understand if you get clams cooked to the consistency of rubber, as many restaurants do, but not every food has to be tender. Frankly, I’d find it a little unsettling if clams just disintegrated in my mouth. Second, the versatility. Clams definitely have a flavor – they aren’t blank canvases – but it’s a flavor that lends itself to a lot of cooking styles. Spicy stir fried Asian clams? Yep, works. Steamed with butter, garlic, and white wine? Great stuff. And of course you’ve got New England clam chowder, which – by itself – justifies the presence of clams on this planet.

They’re also nutritious. Fifteen medium raw clams (mixed species) gives a nice dose of vitamin A, B12, selenium, magnesium, and iron, plus 31 g protein, 7 g carbohydrate, and 300 mg omega-3.

Most clams are farmed, and that’s okay.

Try making arctic char chowder, only with clams.

Mussels

musselsWhen I was younger, mussels were more of a low-end shellfish that I avoided (after all, you could find scads of them clinging to every dock piling on the East Coast). With their appearance on more gourmet menus lately, I’ve taken a shine to them. In the shell, cooked in white wine, garlic, and butter, with about a cup of savory mussel broth left over is just incredible and super easy. Fast, too. It only takes me ten minutes to throw a big batch together. In fact, I could probably squeeze one in right now… Great. Now I’m hungry for mussels. Hold on while I fix some.

In my last post on farmed seafood, I gave credit to the incredible nutrition of the New Zealand green-lipped mussel, which I love but have only had frozen. I can only imagine them fresh. Standard blue mussels are very nutrient-dense, too. 20 medium sized raw blue mussels provide folate (1/3 of the RDA), good amounts of B-vitamins including thiamine, riboflavin, and B12, 108 mg magnesium, 12.6 mg iron, four days’ worth of manganese, 143 micrograms selenium, and 5.1 mg zinc. Along for ride are 38 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, and 7 g fat, including 1.5 g omega-3 and just 100 mg of omega-6.

I’d be leery of farmed Asian mussels, but all other sources are fine.

Try tomato garlic mussels.

Scallops

scallopsSweet, succulent scallops, formed into perfect bite-sized morsels. They almost seem designed specifically for eating, with their flat, even surfaces (good for searing), uniform, attractive color, and natural sweetness. Compare the scallop, which looks like it was formed in a mold, to the oyster, that delicious but shapeless blob of slime and salt, and you see why squeamish folks will shun shellfish but happily eat the scallop.

Just because the masses love ‘em doesn’t mean they aren’t good for you. On the contrary, a mere six ounces of scallops provides the RDA for B12 and a decent mix of magnesium, selenium, and zinc, plus 20 grams of protein. Farmed and wild scallops from all over get a good rating from the Seafood Watch, so have at them.

Try scallops and bacon.

Lobster, Crab, and Crayfish

crayfishLobster, crab, and crayfish aren’t what most people typically think of when discussing shellfish. They are arthropods, rather than mollusks. They walk around and actively eat things, instead of being filter feeders. They have big claws. Are they encased in shell? Yes, and so they are included.

The nutrition data available for lobster, crab, and crayfish indicate decent levels of magnesium, selenium, and zinc, more so for crab and lobster than crayfish, probably because the former are sea creatures and the latter is freshwater. As this article points out, conventional data most likely doesn’t account for the viscera, or connective tissue and organ mass; it’s only concerned with the muscle meat. If the nutrition data for the organs of other animals is anything to go by, eating the viscera of arthropods is certain to provide a wider, denser range of nutrients. So that means eating the crab and lobster “butter” and sucking out the contents of the crayfish head are probably good ideas.

All crab and lobster are wild caught and good to eat. Farmed American crayfish is safe and plentiful.

Try lobster, grapefruit, and avocado salad with creamy citrus dressing.

Sea Snails

seasnailTwo main types of sea snails are usually available for purchase: whelks and conchs. Usually available is relative, of course. You probably won’t find these at Safeway. To distinguish between the two, rely on the labels or the guy working the seafood counter. Conch shells tend to be a bit more ornate looking, almost with a crown-like structure or “horns”, while whelks do not. It’s easy to mix them up. Conch shells double as wind instruments, like in “Lord of the Flies.” I’ve never had whelk, but conch ceviche is incredible.

Three ounces of raw whelk (unspecified species) meat contains a day’s worth of copper, 4.3 mg iron, 73 mg magnesium, and 70%, or 38 micrograms, of selenium, plus plenty of B12. You also get 20 g protein and 6 g carbs, but sadly no fat. Four ounces of cooked conch meat gives you 17 g protein, a third of the recommended folate intake (121 micrograms), 4.3 mg vitamin E, and a day and half’s worth of B12. As for minerals, the conch provides 161 mg magnesium (a huge amount), 0.3 mg copper (a third of the RDA), and half the RDA for selenium.

Unfortunately, conch gets an “Avoid” rating from the Seafood Watch. There are sustainable farms popping up in the Caribbean, but for now it might be a good idea to hold off on the wild conch.

Shrimp

See this recent post.

Shellfish Allergy

Shellfish allergy is one of the most common, and this leads some to believe that shellfish may be a novel addition the the human diet to which a good chunk of people have yet to adapt. This is a mistake. First, we’ve obviously been eating shellfish for hundreds of thousands of years. They don’t run from us, they taste great, and we’ve got the shell remains to prove it. Second, beef allergy is one of the more common allergies, too (more common than you might think), but that doesn’t tell us anything about whether we should be eating it or not. It does suggest that folks who are allergic to a particular food probably shouldn’t be eating the food, and that’s it.

If you haven’t been eating shellfish on a regular or semi-regular basis, I think I’ve shown that you probably should be. We have every indication that our ancestors prized the shellfish and considered it a sacred food worthy of trekking long distances and even commiserating with mortal enemies. The nutritional data we have on the various types of shellfish confirm that these little guys are indeed powerhouses.

If the cost of shellfish seems prohibitive, understand that you don’t have to, nor should you, get the bulk of your animal nutrition from them. The fact that they are so nutrient dense means you only need a few to get the benefits. Don’t necessarily think of oysters, mussels, and their brethren as protein sources. Think of them as whole food supplements.

What’s your favorite type of shellfish? Do you eat it regularly? Do you think you’ll try adding more to your diet?

You want comments? We got comments:

Imagine you’re George Clooney. Take a moment to admire your grooming and wit. Okay, now imagine someone walks up to you and asks, “What’s your name?” You say, “I’m George Clooney.” Or maybe you say, “I’m the Clooninator!” You don’t say “I’m George of George Clooney Sells Movies Blog” and you certainly don’t say, “I’m Clooney Weight Loss Plan”. So while spam is technically meat, it ain’t anywhere near Primal. Please nickname yourself something your friends would call you.

  1. We have oyster roasts here quite a bit. The oysters usually come fairly mud coated. We spray them off, but typically after eating a dozen or so, you are bound to eat a little mud. I figure this is probably good for you, in a primal kind of way? Any thoughts?

    Russ wrote on June 24th, 2011
    • Think of it as a probiotic… unless the mud’s been roasted, in which case think of it as a trace-mineral supplement :)

      Stuart wrote on June 24th, 2011
  2. I’ll eat Chesapeake blue crab, lobster, and shrimp all day long, but I just can’t bring myself to suck down and oyster.

    I wonder who the first Grok was who cracked and oyster open and said “MMMM-mmmm, this looks good!”

    :)

    Chris wrote on June 24th, 2011
  3. If I have the opportunity to eat seafood, this is the kind of stuff I want to eat. Growing up in the south, I ate heaps of crawfish, mussels, and the occasional spiny lobster. The is truly nothing better than a blue point oyster. No lemon, no tabasco, no cracker, just goodness.

    Jaybird wrote on June 24th, 2011
  4. A few weeks ago, I had an oyster Bloody Mary — flavored with the brine, and garnished with the mollusk, shell and all. It was superb.
    OK, I lied. I had two.

    Maria wrote on June 24th, 2011
  5. Excited to go out and get some shellfish for tonight. I just texted my wife and told her we’re having some for sure. As I was on MDA the song Apeman by The Kinks came on my itunes. Not sure if you guys have listened to it or not, but it’s definitely a “primal” song so check it out!

    Caleb wrote on June 24th, 2011
  6. I mentioned catching crayfish a couple days ago but I’ll do it again here since it fits. About a couple months ago I read the book “My Side of the Mountain”, which is about a 14 year old named Sam who goes to live by the ruins of his ancestral farm in the edge of the wild at the bottom of a mountain. It’s a good read and I recommend it. In the book he eats crayfish, which gave me the idea to catch and eat some. Then I saw crayfish mentioned on here. I’ve always wanted the primal experience of catching, killing, preparing, and eating my own food and since crayfish are fairly easy to catch, kill, and prepare I have just recently done so. I caught them by walking around in water on the edge of a lake and overturning rocks. The larger, flatter rocks seemed to be the most likely spots for the crayfish to hide under. When you overturn a crayfish’s rock it will swim really fast in a straight line and if it’s not already heading for another rock, it will turn and try to get under one. Grab it. You probably won’t get hurt. Out of 6 I saw in about 15 minutes of searching I caught 4 and didn’t get pinched.
    Running out of library computer time.
    Here’s a good video for them.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhJE4KMWPH4

    Tim wrote on June 24th, 2011
  7. Next weekend I’m going to make a pilgrimage down to Myrtle Beach and this reminded me to hit up Admiral’s Flagship… $23 for all-you-can-eat (and local, as in “caught ‘em across the road this morning”) blue crabs! Pass on the fried flounder, but keep the crustaceans coming…

    Stuart wrote on June 24th, 2011
  8. I have been buying the clams from Costco in the freezer section. They are really good the package has butter and all you do is microwave them. I usually have the clams with left over meat or fish from the weekend feast and it is awesome I highly recomend them and the Costco Sockeye Salmon

    Andy wrote on June 24th, 2011
  9. Mmmm… shellfish :) Oysters with lemon, fresh horseradish and a bit of hot sauce are my favorite! I love them steamed.

    Jennie Walker wrote on June 24th, 2011
  10. I’ve always preferred shellfish of all kinds to finfish – and my local big-box supermarket is actually carrying live lobsters now. Will be on the menu more often!

    Oysters – one of my favorite foods ever. My sister’s in-laws introduced me to the oyster shooter… raw oyster in a shot glass with brine, a half-shot of good vodka and a dash of hot sauce. O.M.G.

    Was hoping to see a little more about snails… I can get periwinkles here, which are delicious steamed and dipped in clarified butter/garlic. They look like snot, but are wonderful for snacking!

    Tracy wrote on June 25th, 2011
  11. Tell it to my buddy, who ate some oysters. He became almost immediately ill. Hospitalized, his extremities began to turn black. Though the doctors amputated them, the condition spread. It consumed his whole body in a matter of days.

    Jack wrote on June 25th, 2011
  12. Just a note on scallops–the perfectly-molded looking way we Americans get them–is not the way they actual grow in the wild. That yummy round white section is only their adductor muscle. In many countries in Asia, at least, the “frill” is often eaten as well. Just like the way some Asians eat the shell of the shrimp as well as the inside. I wonder what the nutritional implications are…

    Julia wrote on June 29th, 2011
  13. Wow Mark, today I was at my local farmers market and noticed a stall where they were selling fresh oysters to eat there and then. I bought 2 and enjoyed them so much I went back and bought another 3! I’ll be going back next week for more.

    Steve wrote on July 2nd, 2011
  14. Why not use a soup- or dessert-spoon?

    Mike Ellwood wrote on December 31st, 2011
  15. I have to admit that I live idyllically. I live on the water on the Maine coast. I fish (non-commercially) for lobsters and raise my own oysters. Our shore front is tidal so we can dig quahogs and razor clams and pick mussels off the rocks at low tide. Shrimp is available in the winter but this year the season was shut down after a week.There is a very nearby farm that raises and sells free range beef and we have our own chickens, plus a bountiful garden and fruit trees.
    The saddest part of this life here is knowing that there are thousands of Atlantic Salmon out there that may not be caught. I won’t eat farm raised fish so my morning piece of raw sockeye come from Alaska…such a pity…but I’ll survive.
    ‘Live Long, Love Strong…Eat Seafood’

    Chris wrote on January 25th, 2012
  16. I buy 7 oysters on saturday, freeze, then eat one every morning until the next saturday. I developed a taste for it and don’t have to worry about my zinc, copper or selenium anymore. (Plus it’s an extra shot of omega 3’s as well!) Definitely price-efficient compared to all the supplements i would have to take otherwise, and i’m sure its bio-availability is good.

    Verther wrote on June 7th, 2012
    • Great cue; thanks!!

      Diane Heath wrote on February 25th, 2013
  17. Upon reading this article several weeks ago, I gladly began supplementing my diet wih shellfish. Here in Oregon, live mussels and clams are readily availabe from Washington. However, now with the Hanford nuke leaks coming to light, as well as encountering articles such as the following, I’m not sure the shellfish addition is good for my health. I’d appreciate more insight! http://aircrap.org/pacific-ocean-radioactive-garbage-dump/331431/

    Diane Heath wrote on February 23rd, 2013
  18. I would love to try this bacon wrapped smoked oyster recipe, but can’t seem to find tins from the USA!!!! and I live on the Carolina coast… insane. Any suggestions? I am trying to only ever buy USA…

    Carol wrote on March 23rd, 2013

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