Catalogs, store fliers, magazine articles, and recipe books presume to offer it: “All you need to make a perfect Thanksgiving!” By now most of us have the “stuff” that typically goes into Thanksgiving: the food, the festive napkins, the centerpiece, etc. We’ve unearthed the ginormous serving tray from the basement and dug out the carving set. We’ve taken down the box that holds Grandma Rose’s old gravy boat. And we’ve likely ironed out the logistics of the occasion: when guests will arrive, when the turkey will go into the oven, and who will bring what. We’ve straightened the house, cajoled the kids to make their bedrooms presentable, and maybe the more ambitious and organized among us have even made a dish or two ahead of time.