I burn less easily now, and when I do, it hurts far less and is gone much sooner. I believe, but haven't yet proven, that I can stay out longer before I burn. I also am starting to get a physical feeling, a signal of some kind, that I've reached the amount of sun my skin can stand at that time.
I use extra virgin olive oil or coconut oil (SPF 2-4 = it doubles to quadruples your natural time without burning). It takes a good bit more thinking to use than sunscreen, but since sunscreen takes away your damage warning system (sunburn) without actually taking away the damage, what's the point in using the commercial stuff?
There's a good bit on my blog about sunscreen and its pointlessness (and indeed, how it increases sun damage by increasing the amount of time spent in the sun beyond our natural ability to withstand it).