Heh! Thanks :) I wish I wasn't too impatient to spit it out, I would have tried to articulate it better. But lots of ideas started gushing, I couldn't wait to talk about being free, lol!
Sounds incredible bud, I might take you up on that someday! Bishop is one of the top destinations on my wishlist.
Yeah, circuiting/volume training doesn't do much for you. I used to do it too. It'll improve your endurance slightly, and make you really good at climbing all the warmups and moderates in your area, but that's about it. As for technique, I've found that climbing at your limit improves your technique better than anything else. Reason is, easy stuff doesn't require much technique (the holds are big, and you can basically just muscle your way up if you want). When you try something that's beyond your ability though, then strength alone won't get you to the top, so you have to figure out how to move/position your body in ways that will keep you on and let you move on the holds. Strong climbing on hard problems is by far the best way to becoming a better boulderer.
Awesome that you just started on a fingerboard! I don't think there's anything better for climbing training. Rock rings are great too, but just for extra variety. As for other exercises I do pull ups and one-arm pull ups, front levers, body rows, and some random rear delt and rotator cuff work with dumbells occasionally. I don't do most of these things the way you'd think though. I employ a lot of very slow reps (think body by science, superslow, or power of ten style) and static holds in order to get as much continuous tension as possible. Pretty much everything I do is to failure. Working muscles with a continuous tension strategy and using a resistance that causes failure somewhere between 60-90 seconds is amazing for bouldering (since most boulder problems only take a minute or two at most to send).
Good luck on Fly Boy. Soul Slinger looks sick too. I'm sure you'll pull 'em both down soon -- you've got the psych so you'll find a way!
I don't think having a "volume day" is of any use in bouldering -- at least, not if your goal is to become a stronger boulderer (it might be decent training for sport or trad, but that's not my interest). In fact, I do pretty much the exact opposite of what you'd call a volume day, and I never "circuit problems" as you mentioned a few posts back. When I boulder my goal is always the same: to do something new that I've never been able to do before. Obviously sending a project or two would be ideal, but just doing a single move that I'd never been able to do before is great too. The goal is to see some sort improvement in my ability to climb hard, that's all.
To accomplish this I tend to take a long time in between burns. I often only take 4-5 total burns an hour, sometimes less. My style (I guess you could say) is "quality over quantity". I'd much rather get on a boulder only a few times but climb very well each time, than underperform on a lot of attempts.
I agree man, the grade differences become really vast as you start getting up there. Going from V7/V8 to V9 is a challenge. Finger strength helps of course, but it seems to me that technique starts to become really essential for almost every single problem in the upper grades. Try to climb everything, even your warmups with as much fluidity as you can. You need to be really aware of your entire body in order to climb the really hard stuff... at least, that's what I'm finding lately.
I'm having a great season. Super psyched right now because I finally did all the moves (and all the links) on a long time project of mine called Overburdened (V11). No pics to show, but if the weather is decent this week I hope to pull it down and maybe get it on video.
No worries... I'll never be Nalle either, lol. Later bud, have fun out there!
Dude, the prob in that photo is sick looking! Is that you climbing it? What's the name? Good luck bud, I hope you crush it soon!
I use a fingerboard for training. Basically I have a list of about 20 different exercises that I think are really useful to climbing. On a workout day I'll select 4 or 5 of those exercises and try to set a personal best for each one (usually measured in time for deadhangs, or in reps for other things). They are very short workouts, but extremely intense. I can't climb for at least 2 days afterword.
Other than that I just climb. :) My goal generally is to get one hangboard session in every 8-10 days (once a week at most), and then climb as much as I can in between (usually 2-3 times a week).
Indeed my friend. And you? Been doing lots of circuits actually, to get more climbing volume and prepare my body for harder things. Will have my first day of projects tomorrow.. Gotta finish this thing:
Aw hey it won't embed. oh well
How's the bouldering season treating ya pyrosis? Been getting out much?
Hello, I've sent you a friend request as you're into climbing, thought I'd make contact with some fellow primal climbers. How's everything going?
Hey! Thanks for the request. How ya doin'?